上學期學校給了我們一個論文題目，分析一件自己衣櫥裡的衣服，不僅要講述這件衣服與我們的關係，更要從各種角度分析。當時承陶想到衣櫥裡與我相處最久的就是這件弘明的唐裝，因此我選它為這次的主題。那時承陶帶了這件衣服去學校，老師看到第一眼就對其感到興趣，除了對於服裝的外型感到興趣，也對於台灣制服的制度感到好奇。承陶從來沒有想過在弘明的所學到大學還可以這麼受用，也不知道畢業後還能利用這件唐裝與弘明有所連結。也很感恩有這次機會能與大家分享。
Garment Analysis
Cheng-Tao Liu
Every product reveals the design and development decision-making process.
In particular, clothing can provide historical, social and economic impacts,
material development, and the relationship between aesthetics and functionality.
The garment I have chosen to analyse is a white Chinese dress. It has a long
historical background and a lot of memories.
Figure 1: Liu, C
(2018) Female Tangzhuang [photograph].
Figure 2: Liu, C (2018) Male Tangzhuang [photograph].
Figure 3: Liu, C (2018) The
details of Tangzhuang [photograph].
The fabric of the garment is quite sheer which is made from cotton. There
are two vents on both sides of the garment. The white garment has a pocket on
the lower left side and a dark grey button knot on the top of it. Below the pocket,
my Chinese name was stitch with silver thread. The garment has dark grey lines,
which on the right side and around the neckline. There are three button knots
on the line. One of them is one the neckline, other two buttons are in front of
the breast. On the lower right side, there are lotus flower and lotus leaf
patterns, and three small brown fish swimming on the side. The paintings are
not only in the front of the garment but also in the back. Those paintings are
hand painted which look like Chinese ink paintings.
This garment was my secondary school uniform for summer time.
Students wear it on different occasions. For example, students wear it for the
weekly assembly, the formal events, and the performances. This garment usually
goes with navy blue trousers. But sometimes girls wear it with a black long
skirt for performance. The fabric is quite sheer, therefore students were
demanded to wear white tank top inside. However, the material of the garment
does not breathe very well, especially in the summer. There are two different
styles of garments for male students and female students. The garment I
analysed is for female students. The paintings on male students’ garment are
black and white, and the buttons are concealed in the middle. In addition, the
lotus flower pained on the garment presents purity and integrity. The school
also expected students to be brilliant people with cultural literacy.
Having uniforms in schools was a normal thing in Taiwan. Every
school has their own uniforms, which present the spirits of schools. Every
school has a different design and colours. Most of the Taiwanese high school
uniforms for female students are sailor suit or shirt with a pleated skirt or
plaid skirt. However, the high school I studied supported traditional Chinese
culture. Therefore, the high school decided to have tangzhuang, which is
Chinese costume. I was proud of my high school uniform because of the
uniqueness and the symbol. I felt special when I was wearing it.
Students were demanded to wear uniform strictly in Taiwan. Yet, the
school uniform regulations have been loosened in 2016; students would not be
punished by their apparel anymore. According to Tsai Ching-hwa, Deputy Minister
of Education, “high school students will be allowed to mix and match their
uniforms, gym suits, and any other attire approved by each school.” Students
were happy about this new policy which they finally had more freedom to choose
their outfits, as long as it is approved. For example, the students in Girl’s
high school are no longer being restricted to wear skirts. They can wear shorts
or trousers as they wish. The school uniforms were being to make students equal;
students would not feel inferior to one from the other by their outfits. But,
the new policy might change this situation.
As I mentioned, the garment is a tangzhuang, which is a kind of
Chinese cloth. It was inspired by traditional Chinese outfit from Ming Dynasty
(1368-1644) and Qing Dynasty (1616-1911). This garment is a modern version of
Chinese costume. People called this kind of garment “Chinese dress” or “Chinese
suit” in general. However, the origin is from Manchu, which is an ethnic group
in Qing Dynasty. The original look of Chinese dress has a high neck and long
wide sleeves; the garment also has delicate embroidery. The look also influenced by
the status of those women’s husband.
The Ming Dynasty absorbed the culture of previous Dynasties which
are Tang and Song Dynasties. The Chinese Han culture was fully developed during
the Ming Dynasty. According to Chinese
clothing, “the most typical Ming women’s garment is the “bijia”, which is a
long sleeveless jacket that has embroidery and jade ornament on it. A slender
figure was the ideal of beauty for Ming women, and the “bijia” helped create
visual impression of slenderness.”(Mei, 2011)
Figure 4: (2018) Bijia [online image].
Figure 5: Imperial women of Qing Dynasty wearing different styles of daily
dress. (2011) Taken from: Chinese clothing, p. 45
After the Ming Dynasty, Manchu people took over the country became
Qing Dynasty. The lifestyle and dressing style had dramatically changed since
they cross the Great Wall from the northeast, and settled in Beijing. The
traditional costumes that Manchu people wore were designed for shooting and
riding. The look is very different from the previous dynasty ruled by Han
people. In order to erase the national identity of Han people, the emperor
strictly prohibited Han people to wear Han costume. Han people wore “dajin”
which was a style of clothing has buttons to the left and has overlapping front
pieces of material. Women usually wear dajin with long gown and pleat skirts.
In Qing Dynasty, the daily clothing for Manchu women was robes with
trousers. There were two kinds of robes, one is the long skirt the other one is
the cloak. The long shirt was round-neck, “button to the right side” style which
is opposite to dajin. The length was long enough to reach the feet with twisted
materials. The shirt has five buttons, long sleeves with edgings and
embroideries. In some formal occasions, cloaks were decorated with delicate
edgings and pattern. Since the robes had no collars, the ladies usually wear
the robes with a small scarf. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty, the robes were
loose-fitting, and they became tighter after a time. Until the end of the
dynasty, the arm part was loose, and the outline was straight and flat. Even
though the shape of the garment changed a lot, the length of robes was still
the same.
China was influenced by the
western culture in the 19th century. In order to tailor to the
society, the sleeves of robes became narrow, and the length had been cut short
to fit upper body. The choice of fabric became multiple. At first, tangzhuang
was made from cotton, linen and silk. Nowadays, it is made from satin mostly.
During Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC)
Leaders' Meeting in 2001, leaders from around the world wore tangzhuang
to the meeting. People started to notice this kind of Chinese suit because of
this international event. Tangzhuang became a symbol of Chinese costume.
In
conclusion, tangzhuang has been through a long evolution in Chinese history.
Tangzhuang is not prevalent currently. It is rare to see people wear tangzhuang
on the street. Some people wear tangzhuang to replace suit since it looks
special and elegant. Having tangzhuang as my high school uniform was my
pleasure. It reveals the spirit of Chinese history, ethnic and culture. This
garment also connects modern people to their ancestor.
Bibliography
Research
referencing:
Xu, D. (2011) Chi-Pao. He-Fei City: Time
Publishing And Media Co. Pp2-5.
Wilson, V. (1986) Chinese Dress. England:
Victoria and Albert Museum. Pp47.
(2010) The history of Chinese dress
development. Available at: http://www.hwjyw.com/zhwh/content/2010/03/29/5042.shtml
(Accessed 17th October 2018)
(2001) APEC
Leaders Dress to Impress. Available at: http://en.people.cn/200110/25/eng20011025_83152.html (Accessed 13th November 2018)
(2002) Traditional
Dresses Welcome Spring Festival. Available at: http://china.org.cn/english/LI-e/26726.htm (Accessed 13th November 2018)
White, E. (2016) Taiwan's
Uniform Regulations Loosened Again, Students Not Rejoicing. Available at: https://international.thenewslens.com/article/47012
(Accessed 15th November 2018)
Mei, H. (2011) Chinese clothing. Cambridge:
Cambridge University. Pp40-43
Finnane, A. (2007) Changing clothes in
China: fashion, history, nation. London: HURST. Pp285
Image
referencing:
Figure 1: Liu, C (2018) Female Tangzhuang [photograph].
Figure 2: Liu, C (2018) Male Tangzhuang [photograph].
Figure 3: Liu, C (2018) The details of Tangzhuang
[photograph].
Figure 4: (2018) Bijia [online image].
Available from: https://kknews.cc/history/5ljzrv3.html
(Accessed 25th November 2018)
Figure 5: Imperial women of Qing Dynasty wearing different styles of daily
dress. (2011) Taken from: Chinese clothing, p. 45
文章中文翻譯：
每個產品都展現了設計和開發決策過程。 同時，服裝可以提供歷史，社會和經濟影響，材料開發以及美學和功能之間的關係。 我選擇用來分析的服裝是白色的中式服裝。
它有悠久的歷史背景和很多回憶。
這件衣服的布料非常透明，由棉製成。
服裝兩側有兩個開衩。 這件白色衣服的左下方有一個口袋，口袋上方有一個深灰色的鈕扣結。 在口袋下面有由銀線繡上的我的中文名字。 這件衣服有深灰色線條，位於右側和領口周圍。
線上有三個按鈕結。
其中一個是領口，另外兩個按鈕位於胸前面。
在右下方，有蓮花和荷葉圖案，側面有三條棕色小魚。
這些圖不僅在服裝的前面，並且在後面也有。
那些圖是手繪的，看起來像中國水墨畫。
這件衣服是我的夏季中學校服。
學生在不同的場合穿著它。
例如，學生們會在參加每週的集會時，或正式活動和表演時穿著它。
這件衣服通常搭配深藍色長褲。
但有時候女生會穿黑色長裙來表演。
這件衣服的布料很透明，因此學校要求學生在裡面穿白色背心。
然而，它的材質不是很透氣，尤其是在夏天。
男學生和女學生有兩種不同風格的服裝。
我分析的這件服裝是針對女學生的。
男學生服裝上的畫作是黑白的，中間隱藏著鈕扣。
此外，服裝上的蓮花呈現純淨和正直。
學校還希望學生成為具有文化素養的卓越人才。
在台灣，在學校穿制服是很正常的事情。
每所學校都有自己的制服，體現了學校的精神。
每所學校都有不同的設計和顏色。
大多數的台灣女學生的高中制服是水手服或襯衫搭配百褶裙或格子裙。
然而，我讀的高中支持中國傳統文化。
因此，這所高中決定使用中國的服裝，唐裝。
由於其獨特性和象徵的意義，我為我的高中校服感到驕傲。
當我穿著它時感到與眾不同。
在台灣，學生被嚴格要求穿著制服。
然而，2016年校服的規定被放寬; 學生不會再因為他們的服裝受罰了。 教育部副部長蔡清華表示，「高中生將被允許混合搭配他們的制服和運動服，以及任何學校批准的其他服裝。」學生們對於新政策感到高興。 只要獲得批准，就可以更自由地選擇自己的服裝。
例如，女子高中的學生不再被限制穿裙子。
他們可以隨意穿短褲或長褲。
制服的是為了讓學生平等; 學生們不會因為他們的服裝而感到自卑。 但是，新政策可能會改變這種情況。
正如我所提到的，這件衣服是唐裝，是一種中國服飾。
它的靈感來自明朝（1368-1644）和清朝（1616-1911）的中國傳統服飾。
這件衣服是中國服裝的現代版本。
人們稱這種服裝為「中國服裝」或「中國西裝」。 然而，其起源於清朝的一個民族滿族。 中國服飾的原始外觀有高領和寬袖; 並且有精緻的刺繡。 外觀也受到這些女性的丈夫的身份影響。
明朝吸收了唐宋時期的文化。
中國漢文化在明代得到了充分發展。
根據中國服裝的說法，“「最典型的明女裝是『碧甲』，這是一件長袖無袖上衣，上面有刺繡和玉器。 一個苗條的身材是明朝女性的對於美麗理想，而『碧甲』幫助創造了苗條的視覺印象。」（何美，2011）
明朝以後，滿族接管了國家成為清朝。
由於他們從東北穿過長城並定居在北京，因此人們的生活方式和穿衣風格有了巨大的變化。
滿族人穿的傳統服飾專為射擊和騎行而設計。
外觀與統治漢族的前一個王朝截然不同。
為了抹去漢族的民族認同，皇帝嚴格禁止漢族人穿漢服。
漢人穿著「大襟」，這是一種服裝風格，左邊有鈕扣，前面有重疊的布料。 女性通常穿著大襟搭配長袍和褶裙。
清朝時，滿族婦女的日常服裝是長袍和褲子。
當時有兩種長袍，一種是長裙，另一種是斗篷。
長襯衫是圓領，「右邊開襟」式，與大襟相反。 這種長袍使用蜷曲的布料並且長度足夠長到達腳部。
這件上衣有五個鈕扣以及長的袖子並飾有邊飾和刺繡。
在一些正式場合，斗篷上會飾有精美的邊飾和圖案。
由於長袍沒有衣領，女士們通常會穿著長袍搭配小圍巾。
清朝初期，長袍較為寬鬆，經過一段時間後演變得較為合身。
到了清朝末期，手臂的部分變得寬鬆，輪廓變得筆直而扁平。
儘管服裝的外形有了很大變化，但長袍的長度仍然相同。
中國在19世紀時受到西方文化的影響。 為了適應社會，長袍的袖子變窄，長度縮短以符合上半身。 布料的選擇變得多種多樣。
起初，唐裝是用棉，麻，絲製成的。
如今，它主要由緞面製成。
在2001年亞太經濟合作組織領導人會議期間，來自世界各地的領導人穿著唐裝參加會議。 由於這次國際盛會，人們開始注意到這種中國式的西裝。
唐裝也成為中國服裝的象徵。
總之，唐裝歷經了中國歷史的長期演變。 唐裝目前並不普遍。
也很少看到人們在街上穿唐裝。
有些人穿唐裝來代替西裝，因為它看起來特別優雅。
能有唐裝作為我的高中制服是我的榮幸。
它展現了中國歷史和民族以及文化的精神。
這件衣服也將現代人與祖先聯繫在一起。
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